Choosing Fabric for Dance and Costumes: Holograms, Foils, Sequins and More

Dance, cheer, gymnastics and costume fabrics have one job above all: look spectacular under stage lights while moving with the performer. That calls for strong 4-way stretch, excellent recovery and a surface that catches the light. Here is a guide to the main options and when to use each.

Start with the base

Almost every performance fabric is built on a 4-way stretch knit, most often nylon spandex. Nylon’s recovery and natural luster make it the classic base for leotards and costumes. Look for 15–20% spandex and a weight around 200–240 GSM for leotards and dancewear. Shimmery effects are then added on top.

Holograms

Hologram fabrics have a reflective finish that shifts color as the light and angle change. They are a favorite for competition dance, cheer and gymnastics, and they read beautifully from the back of an auditorium. Our Shocker Holo is one example on a nylon spandex base. Browse the full hologram collection.

Foils

Foil fabrics have a metallic film or pattern bonded to the surface, from all-over metallics to foil-printed patterns on a colored base. Matrix Foil (80% nylon, 20% spandex, 210 GSM) is a popular choice. Foils add maximum shine; test how the foil behaves at full stretch, as heavy foils can crack if overstretched.

Metallic lamé

Stretch lamé gives a smooth, liquid-metal look. Stretch Lamé (82% nylon, 18% spandex, 210 GSM) works for leotards, trims and statement costumes.

Sequins

Stretch sequin fabrics give the most sparkle and movement. They are heavier and need more care in sewing: remove sequins from seam allowances, use a longer stitch, and plan linings so sequins don’t scratch the skin. Use them for panels, appliqués and showpiece costumes. See our sequins.

Velvet

Stretch velvet brings depth and a rich, soft look, popular for lyrical, ballroom, figure skating and holiday costumes. Crushed Velvet (82% polyester, 18% spandex) gives texture that catches the light.

Mesh and power net

Mesh is used for illusion panels, sleeves and inserts, and power mesh adds support without bulk. Our mesh collection includes soft and compression options.

Quick guide by discipline

Discipline	Popular fabrics
Competition dance	Holograms, foils, sequins, mesh panels
Cheerleading	Poly spandex for sublimated uniforms, holograms and foils for accents
Gymnastics	Nylon spandex, holograms, foils with strong recovery
Figure skating	Stretch velvet, mesh, sequins
Costume and ravewear	Holograms, lamé, sequins, stretch vinyl

Sewing and care tips

• Use a stretch or ballpoint needle and a stretch stitch or overlock.
• Test foils and holograms at full stretch before cutting.
• Advise customers to hand wash cold, turn garments inside out and air dry. Heat damages foils and spandex.

See the shine in person

Shine is hard to judge on a screen. Order samples from 1 yard, or visit our showroom in Los Angeles to see fabrics under real light. Explore our dancewear fabrics.

FAQ

What fabric are leotards made of?

Most leotards use 4-way stretch nylon spandex around 200–240 GSM, often in a hologram, foil or metallic finish.

What is the difference between hologram and foil fabric?

Hologram fabric reflects shifting rainbow colors; foil fabric has a metallic film or pattern on the surface. Both add shine on a stretch base.

Do foil fabrics crack?

Heavy foils can crack if stretched past their limit or exposed to heat. Test at full stretch and follow cold-wash care.